Vintage Purses At Their Best by Lynell K. Schwartz
ISBN 0-88740-831-1, Schiffer Publishing, Ltd., 77 Lower Valley Road, Atglen, PA 19310, hardcover, 159 pages.  You can email the author at purses@aol.com

This is one of my favorite books I use regularly for cataloging antique purses. It sets on the shelf right next to my computer, along with other valuable reference books. Vintage purses are covered in 11 chapters and subheadings under some of the expanded chapters. Schwartz starts with a short introduction stating her interest in purses and enjoyment in authoring this book.

In the first chapter, Art Forms in Glass Beads, you see page after page of breathtaking beaded purses in color. There are Scenics of homes and castles, each exquisite and unique. Schwartz has listed information below each purse image. Next are Reticules, Misers, and Tam-O-Shanters, again, all in color. On page 15 is a grouping of purses and ties titled The Glossilia Blue Book of Bags and Ties, 1919. All the bags and ties have identifying numbers. I found the gold and blue one that is worked in sections very fascinating and on my list to make a miniature likeness. All photo images are in color with the exception of those purses that are black and white. On page 17 is the purse I adore, The Miss Chicago. It speaks to me, "Make me Lydia, make me. I need to be in your beaded purse collection." Below The Miss Chicago is an image of a beaded purse titled The Jewel and there are actually directions to make it. Schwartz has several of these images as historical examples throughout her book. The printed instructions are very tiny, but I can still read them and could actually make the purse. On page 18 is complete instructions to make The Sidney No. 518, a misers bag. These purses are crocheted. Next we come to Figural purses in many colors and shapes. I found the American made bag on page 20 with couched beads very compelling. The beading on this purse has the appearance of many textures.

The Floral purses are next with a close-up view of a frame with Satyrs on page 25; great metalwork artistry. I then lip smacked my way through more lovelies with rich colors and close-ups of unique frames and accessories. Now we come to Birds and Animals with peacocks, robins and other creatures peaking out of the beads. Swag purse images are shown in detail. Some are photo advertising from 1924 and are just fun to view. I found Model 135 on page 35 very unusual with sections of looped beads and others patterned using crochet or knitting techniques. Geometrics are introduced, many having the appearance of oriental rugs and mosaic art.

Regional Examples is a chapter on Egyptian, Venetian and Oriental bags. Schwartz gives us some historical background for each group of purses and then proceeds to offer purse images that make you eye goggle. Page 42 has the most awesome purse frame you can believe in the Egyptian motifs! It is a celluloid image of Cleopatra. Her head sticks above the purse frame as the closure. You move her head and it opens. Her chest, arms and hands is the purse frame. It is absolutely a work of art. The back of the purse frame is her back, head and shoulders. You must see the photo images to appreciate it. We find Egyptian motifs on chatelaines too. Purses on page 45 include a full face of a pharaoh and an Egyptian beetle. Schwartz includes several images of purse frames with Egyptian motifs. There is one purse on page 47 of a French cut steel reticule with an Egyptian motif and a choice of two purse frames with Egyptian motifs. Yes, we will take two please! Venetian purses are next in tiny graduated colors of size 18 and smaller seed beads. Those created in size 20 and smaller seeds beads are the most delicate and have amazing graduated colors as if you were looking at miniature paintings. The Oriental motifs have scenics that include people and birds.

Ingenious Mesh is the next chapter. These mesh bags come in many shapes and metals. Some are chains and others armor mesh. Several of these purses have compact cases, gate tops and other unique frames. Page 56 displays a jeweled ring mesh bag with a hand shaped brooch attached. Delightful! The history on Bliss and Napier, manufacturers of metal and mesh products, is discussed. These manufacturers incorporated other material such as beads and precious gemstones into some of their products. There are several pages of purse frames and mesh bags created by this company. Each frame displayed has a date and note next to it. This is excellent information for cataloging purse frames. On page 72 is a very long mesh bag that looks gold and has a fancy chain tassel. The clasp and frame at the top almost look like the head and shoulders of a totem person.

Whiting & Davis are the next manufacturers listed with a long history in mesh purses and other related products. This section has several pages of enameled purses in vibrant colors including the classic Dresden enameling. Many purse styles in sterling silver are displayed. Some have puffy fringing and others have zigzag bottoms. There is a purse on page 79 of mesh chain with a very ornate insert called Venetian fringe that looks floral. A purse on page 84 has a bell incorporated into the design. Page 92 has an enameled rigid purse with a linked tassel and has an Oriental flavor to it. Page 93 has a fire breathing dragon enameled mesh purse and on page 96 are enameled purses with images of the famous such as Clark Gable.

Mandalian is another company that manufactured enameled mesh bags. Their history is discussed followed by photo images. They manufactured very small enamel pieces which made the purses very supple. There are several color images and many of the purses are very detailed. On page 104 are two purses with enamel mesh on the bottom and the tops are drawstring fabric.

Steel Beaded Purses have a history of their own and some gorgeous examples begin on page 106. These purses are just as intricate as the tiny seed bead purses. Page 110 has directions to make the LIDO No. 6956 and on page 112 are instructions to make The Galliene No. 683; both are knitted. Mounting the purses onto metal frames is not included; these instructions were on another page of the original book from which these patterns were published.

Textiles include silk embroidery, petitpoint and other needle stitchery. Some petitpoints had sixty stitches to the inch. On page 116 are illustrations and instructions to make The Viking No. 696, a woven tapestry bag. There are intricate Chinese, Austrian and French embroidered bags and even embroidered dance bags.

You see more fine quality celluloid purse frames as we go through the history of Plastics for purses. The celluloid frames on page 125 are just overwhelming in their extraordinary design.

Vanity Purses are those dainty little fluffs that are all feminine. Many of them are all rigid in structure while others have a rigid frame or closure and the body is a soft mesh. Some have gate tops and others snap closures. Dance Purses follow, some with filigree frames or painted relief panels. Many have fancy tassels and some have bodies of silk and velvet. Rarities & Curiosities gives you a look at purses carved of whale bone and walrus tusks and embellished with scrimshaw; a purse that is paper lined; one ivory, gilt and embossed metal purse and more. Children's Purses have cute motifs such as the three little pigs. The purse on page 142 has a cartoon type face on the front and two little coin purses and a face mirror to accompany it.

The Home Purse-Making Market clues us into a past time when you could purchase sewing silk for 10 cents. Yes, those were the days of kits too. Kits are not a new idea. This section has several old ads for the purse twist, beads and other materials for making bags. On page 149 is another set of purses with instructions for the Beaded Shopping Bag and the Beaded Gate Top Purse. You could actually use the graphs shown and weave these purses on a bead loom or crochet them using the instructions. Page 152 includes two more patterns for The Boulevard No. 336 and The Avenue No. 344 which are for crochet but the graphs could be followed for weaving. Page 153 has the St. Petersburg and The Pyramid which are knitted. Page 154 has instructions to make a wood bead crafted bag in a right angle weave. There are bead sample cards included on this last page. Remember, all the instructions for making bags were included as historical significance and are in small print. A Bibliography, Price Guide and Index is at the back of the book.

In conclusion, Vintage Purses At Their Best is a valuable resource for cataloging purses, for beadwork history and also inspirational for design ideas. You will love this book for the beautiful color images and designs of the past.